Athens, 6-8 June

 

Our fender, "Nellie" has got a "little Nellie" to keep her company. With so much wind we have been experiencing, the need for a "little Nellie" has become clear.

 On our way to Athens in search of Moussaka

The last and only time I was in Athens was 1976. What I remember most clearly is that we wanted to taste real Greek moussaka. When we finally found some, it was cold! So Carl and I are off to Athens determined to find a good, hot Moussaka.

The receptionist at the hotel gave us a map with suggestions do what we will manage to see in the time we have. So it is off to the Acropolis with all its fantastic monuments and history. We found out that the most damage that was done to the Parthenon  on 26 September 1687 when an Ottoman ammunition depo was ignited by Venetian bombardment. The resulting explosion severely damaged the Parthenon.

The Partenon measures 38 x 69 meters. The pillars are 15 m high. 

This is an olive tree outside the ruins of the temple to Athena, the patron of Athens, and after who Athens was named. The story we were told ( on the hop on, hop off bus,) is that Poseidon and Athena both wanted to be patron of the beautiful city. A competition was held to decide whose gift to the city would be the most useful. Poseidon struck his trident in the ground and a spring appeared on the spot where the sword hit the ground. This spring became a sea. When it was Athenas turn she quietly bent down and buried something in the ground. It turned out be be an olive tree and  much more useful than Poseidons Sea. Olives trees give oil, fruit, wood any many more things. Because Athenas gift was more useful, she became the patron of the city and Athens is named after her.

After an afternoon of hard touristing we are searching for moussaka. Off to an area nearby which was recommended by the receptionist. At the first restaurant, Mamas, a board saying amongst other things, MOUSSAKA.  Turns out to be a very "local" place, with us the only guests. We were ushered to a table in the back because they had set some tables for guests they were expecting. They informed us that they have live music. Once seated we ask for moussaka. Oh no sorry, that was only for lunch. No moussaka, but everything else on the menu. Very disappointed but thinking of the live music and all the guests who will be arriving, we decided to stay. On the menu, False meatballs. Very good, says Costos, who tells us that he is a photographer from somewhere near Delphi, and is only helping out at they  restaurant  because he can speak English. False meatballs turned out to be sausages chopped in rings and fried. But the music was fantastic! One guitar, one bazuki and a female singer. All for us, because by the time we left at 23.15, no more guests had arrived. Great evening, but no moussaka!

An all females saxophone band on a sidewalk cafe. Good place to rest tired feet and listen to the music.

Just like in Pretoria ( South Africa), beautiful Jacaranda trees.

Here we are at the Temple of Olympian Zeus

And we found the moussaka! Delicious, see the empty plates. We and the other guests were given plates to break. You have to shout Oopa! when you throw down the plate!

The guards outside the Greek parliament and in front of the tomb of the unknown soldier

Wonderful costumes and quite a performance with the two soldiers marching in tune. The march consists of very slowly raising one leg straight out in front and then swinging it backwards, scraping the ground and the back again. Apparently their skirts have 40 pleats, one pleat for every 10 years of Turkish rule (info from hop on, hop off bus)

Carl checking if he could be recruited for a soldier.

It being Swedens national day, 6 June, a drink at a bar showing Swedish colours is called for.

All in all we enjoyed our stay in Athens tremendously. Parts of the city are very run down, I suppose due to their economy, but the historical spots are looked after.

BUT, unfortunately I got robbed! This morning on a very very full metro with me clutching my bag tightly to my chest, some one managed to extract my purse. My credit cards, drivers license 50 euros and about kr 200 gone. But not my passport. Carl was squashed up behind me and he felt a finger slipping into his back pocket. But because he keeps his own finger in his back pocket, he got hold of the foreign finger and gave it a hard squeeze! Lucky we did not both lose our wallets!

Lavrio, Olympic Marina 5 June

Spent this windy day doing laundry, chatting to two Swiss gentlemen who came with their boat from Marmaris, and changing oil. Booked a hotel in Athens for two nights. Went into Lavoria to see the charter boats returning from the week's sailing. 

Waterfront Lavoria.

Carl the cook preparing dinner.

Voufolo to Porto Rafti to Olympic Marina 4 June

Because of the very strong wind and waves on entering the lovely little Bay of Voufolo, we decided to leave as early as possible, before the wind starts up. On our way at 05.35 and although it was less than when we arrived, it was still a hard ride for nearly an hour.

Passed Marathon,where the famous Battle of Marathon took place in which the Athenians defeated the Persians. Apparently 10 000 Athenians triumphed over 24 000 Persians. Estimates of Persian force vary between 24 000 and 5 000 000!

A marathon run is based on a myth that the Greek soldier, Fillipides ran from Marathon to Athens to warn the Athenians about the Persian attack and then to inform them of victory.

During the first modern day marathons, the distance varied between 40-43 km. The distance, 42,195 km was first used during the London Olympics in 1908. The track was to go from Windsor castle to the White City Stadium, 26 miles. 385 yards, (352 m ) were added to the track so that the race would end exactly opposite the royal loge! But it only became official in 1924 when the IOC decided on 42, 195 km.

The distance tween the battle fields at Marathon and Athens is according to the IOC 35,4 km.

Arriving at the town Porto Rafti, where we intend to rest after quite a bumpy ride, according to Leslie. Carl just enjoys surfing with the waves.

The only place we could find to berth at Porto Rafti. Very bad spot with waves hitting us continuously.

So we move on to Marina Olympic, next to a town called Lavrio. On the island of Rafti in the bay is a statue, said to be of Roman origin. The locals call it Rafti, which means tailor.

Arrived at Marina Olympic, Lovaria, and checked the weather for the next few days. Wind and more wind. We are stuck here until Tuesday. So we have decided to do some maintenance tomorrow and visit Athens over the weekend.

Chalkis to Voufolo 3 June

We were set for an early start from Chalki and the bell rang at 0500. When we had dropped the mooring line and put the gear in forward we were pulled back with great force to the jetty. Surprise to find that another mooring line got stuck in our propeller so it was only to put on the speedos and cyclops and dive under the boat to inspect and loosen the line. 

Inspection of the prop shaft and any leakage resulted in another disaster. The torch head was loose and fell down in the bilge. Not even Carl has so long and flexible arms to pick up the the torch head and as there was no water leakage these things could be recovered later with the braai tong.

We got away at 0615.

 

Leaving Chalki Marina at day break. 

The new high span bridge at Chalki connecting Evia with the mainland

After from the beginning a very pleasant ride we were hit by a violent down wind as we got close to our  destination Buffalo Bay.(Voufolo) For the last hour we were tumbled in the very unpleasant waves coming from all directions until we came into the shelter of the bay.

Leslie pointing in the direction of the wild water. 

Here we are tied up alongside the quay and nearest neighbour is the Taverna. We could step out of the boat onto the first table. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, this taverna was closed.

.. and a few ducks. Lots of cats in every harbour, but they keep the rats away!

There were lots of dogs In Chalkis. Not at all aggressive and not scabby looking. The dogs have a habit of attaching themselves to you as you walk past and keep tagging you all the way to the boat. It is like taking your own dog for a walk. I suppose they expect to get some food when you arrive at home.

View of inlet to Voufolo bay. The gusts of wind coming down the high mountains were incredible. We have since read that these gusts are common along the Evia Coast because of the high mountains. So next stop over to the mainland, which is flatter. 

We have noticed that the countryside is much drier here than northern Greece.

Olive groves everywhere. Was wondering how they harvest olives. Checked Google and it seems the best way to harvest olives is hand picking. There are apparently machines but the olives get damaged to do not have the same quality.

Took a walk up the opposite hill to take in the view of Voufolo, or buffalo, as we call it.

Maintenance and housekeeping. 

Voufolo is a beautiful place. A tiny village with two tavernas of which one was closed. It is the kind of place one dreams of finding. So genuine and unspoilt. We arrived at about 11 am and spent the whole day somehow, walking up the hill, swimming, sleeping and washing windows. We had a meal at a tavern owned by Nicos and his Moldavian wife, Stella, fish of course!

Stella's dog joining in the meal.

Chalkis 2 June the evening

We're lucky to see the opening of the bridge just after 22.00. The boats have to wait until they are called by radio to go through. The night before they had to wait untill 03.00. But tonight a big boat, Johanna will pass through.

The bridge spans the narrow gap between Evia and the mainland. The gap is 39,3 m and bridge slides back into a recess under the road. The fishermen in their small boats go up and down trying their luck.

The bridge has just started to open 

Almost open

The open bridge.

Johanna was let through and so all the others came as well.

Our neighbours from the Marina, the New Zealanders, whooping as they go through the gap.

Chalkis 2 June

We stay one day extra in Chalkis to have a better look at this old town. Already in ancient times the place was important for the narrow gap between the mainland and the Evia Island. Only 37 m. The first record of a bridge is from BC 411. Byzantine had a bridge built and the Ventians called the town Negroponte (Black bridge). The Ottomans captured the town in 1470 and it remained there till 1870. Today little is left of the old cultures and the town is modern. But we set out to find out to learn what old treasures had been.

The capping, turbans, of the Chalkis cemetary have an artistic quality but the main aim was to show the hierarchy in the ottoman society. These are the turbans on the graves. The one in the far right, in the middle, showed that there was a woman in the grave.

The lions of St Marcus. Flying lion with the bible in his hands.

Another view of the turbans on the graves.

The Ottomans built the Castle on top of a hill on the mainland.

View of the South Harbour seen from the Castle.

The archaeological museum. We entered a building which we thought was the museum but turned out to be the court house. We were stopped by a female police officer who asked us what we were looking for. This is a court with criminals she said. Next question, where do you come from. Sweden we said. How is the crises? She asked. We answered, is there a crises in Sweden, thinking something had happened. No, she said, only crises in Stupid Greece!  Small encounters with locals are often most fun!

To celebrate Alex and John's third wedding anniversary we had some super sweet Greek cakes and coffee. When Alex turns 30 on the 4th it will be champagne!

Chalkis, Khalkis Halkis, call it what you may, it is a great town!

Skala Atalantis to Khalki 1 June

I

Up early in preparation for the Chalki bridge. Checking weather with wifi from last nights restaurant, where we can "steal" wifi.

Early morning in the fishing harbour in Skala Atalantis before setting off for Chalki.  There seem to be many ways of spelling town names here. We are not sure if we are goo go to Khalki, Chalkis, Halkis of Kalkis.

Travelling down the Evia Gulf. On the mainland side olive groves as far as the eye can see.

Arrived in Chalki at about 11 am, tied up in the centre of town and off to the 

Port police to find out about the passage through the gap. Turns out the Lellebelle can go under the bridge, but we were advised to wait until 4 pm when the current flows southwards. Here the very strong current is flowing northwards.

Leslie checking out the current under the bridge. Looks tough, but we will be going south, right now the current would be against us.

Back to the trip to Chalki. This is the Evia side of the Gulf. Fantastic high mountains. Beautiful.

Entering Chalkis with the bridge in the distance,

Getting ready to pass under the bridge. Lellebelle on the far left and the bridge on the far right. At exactly 15.55 we took the plunge and passed under the bridge with no trouble at all.

Met 3 fine Swedish guys, sailing up to Skiathos. From Göteborg. They are travelling northwards and have a yacht. Therefore they have to wait untill about 4 am for the bridge to open and the go through. So happy that we could go under the bridge ! And did not have to wait untill 4 am. Lucky to have a motorboat, no mast.

After we passed under the bridge we berthed in the Marina just around the corner. Berthed next to a boat with New Zealanders.